MATERIALS

When it comes to materials, I like to think of jewelry as mirroring nature from the bottom up— the ingredients come from the center of the Earth but reflect the light of the stars.

GOLD — from deep in the Earth

I love that gold comes from deep within the Earth. The weight of high karat gold holds and steadies the bright play of light in the gems, grounds them and protects them. By extension and association, gold grounds and protects the wearer, their dreams, aspirations and intentions.

I use the depth and solidity of 18 and 22 karat gold, like the earth, to hold the beautiful reflecting light of a gem; ethereal light held in a place for the mind to settle on so we can contemplate its beauty. I love how high karat gold asserts itself as bright and yet subdued. I also love the relationship between the gold and the skin of the wearer. How it is cold at first to the touch; but when worn, it quickly warms to the body’s temperature.

GEMS — capturing light

Gems capture and reflect light. They are like little stages, providing a place for the light and the mind to settle together.

Choosing gems is like choosing words for a writer or color for an artist. It is one of my favorite parts of designing a piece of jewelry. I am always on the lookout for exceptional color and interesting shapes. I pore over hundreds of gemstones to find the ones that have the best color, cut and…charisma. The gems always have to have character and personality, something unique that sets each one apart from all the others. The same goes for pearls. When I was making the colored gemstone and Tahitian pearl earrings, I brought the gems along with me to shop for the perfect pairs of Tahitian pearls to go with them. I was not looking for a match so much as a complement— a pair that would create a dynamic, irresistible relationship with the gems. I never settle for anything less than exceptional with my gems. I trust you can see the difference. 

Once I have the gems, I take them out and place them on a flat surface in the light to see how the light works in each of them. I sit with them, hold them and study them, watching the reflections and noting the effects, looking for subtlety. Drawn to them, I take this time to get to know them intimately. These moments of observation and intuition supply me with the information I need to eventually start drawing a new piece.

PROCESS

Working with gems and gold together is another way of exploring and manipulating light and color.

In art, I have always enjoyed exploring the boundaries of paint, paper, water, atmosphere, and gravity. To be sure, there is a tremendous freedom in the process of painting. There are relatively few restrictions and endless opportunities for experimentation and innovation.

Making jewelry is a bit different. For me, the piece has to be wearable and comfortable. As in say, cooking, there is a function to be fulfilled. Food needs to taste good in the way that a piece of jewelry needs to be wearable. My process in jewelry making is similar to the way I cook: first I lay out all the ingredients I’m going to work with in front of me. I study them, allow myself to be drawn to them, and let them speak to me. I follow their lead. I tease the jewel out of the stone and metal the way I tease a meal out of an array of fruits, vegetables, and spices. I still enjoy pushing the boundaries of any ingredient or element, to innovate, encouraging chance combinations and embracing that change. If it is a custom piece of jewelry, your story becomes one of the ingredients laid before me as I work.

I hope, in the end, a finished piece of jewelry becomes a new way to feel connected to the elements and allows the combination of golden earth and radiant light to stimulate and inspire you.